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“Burma Heads” in Thailand.

I never had a name to put to it before but now I do.  It’s what happens to some of us who stay inside Burma too long.  We look over our shoulder a lot.  We tend to whisper whenever we talk about politics.  We’re absolufuckinglutly amazed when we finally leave the Dark Empire and dial a phone number and connect on the first try.  We often spend our first day in the light zoned out in our hotel rooms watching CNN and BCC and if we can simultaneously access the web we often overload and are found frozen with stupid grins on our faces and severe carpel tunnel syndrome.  Taxis with windows that roll up and down amaze us.  Ankles, shoulders and god forbid exposed thighs can send us into shock.

I haven’t written much in the last 11 months.  For awhile it was because we were just too busy dealing with the aftermath of the cyclone but more recently it’s been because I really didn’t know whether or not I should, or could, or if anyone cared, or if I would actually be able to email what I wrote if I wrote anything.  Amazing things have happened in the last months but I really just didn’t have any perspective on them until now.  I had Burma Head.

Now we’re in Thailand.  I’ve had a week to soak up 24 hour a day electricity, wireless internet, free press, global news, girls in mini-skirts, men in shorts, people laughing in public, public transportation that doesn’t border on human rights violations, a cell phone connection that works cheaply and effortlessly (you have no idea how wonderful it is to be able just ring up a friend or loved one and chat until you’ve been denied the luxury for months on end) and just a boatload of other things that much of the world takes for granted (running water, health care that doesn’t involve voodoo, political satire, street protests that don’t go postal) and I finally feel like writing.

We’ve begun a great project in the town of Sagaing.  Despite the fact that Sagaing has absolutely none of the wonderful attributes described in the above paragraph we had a great time working there with a woman’s cooperative and the Department of Cottage Industries.  Everyday began with the sound of horse hooves clopping past our hotel and ended with the sound of generators being turned on as the city cuts its electricity after about 8pm.  Clay was delivered to our filter factory by ox cart, (something like $5 per ox cart of red clay and $6 for gray clay), wood by horse cart and humans by foot or bicycle.  As usual, O turned heads and made us tons of friends and carried Cathy and I to Mandalay twice a week so we could get an internet connection (on good days) and buy a bottle or two of red wine to carry us through the week (living in little backwater villages is a pretty good cure for alcohol abuse!)  At some point I’m really hoping we can get a web page up that is devoted solely to this project as it’s really quite unique – plus the pictures will do much more to explain it than I care to attempt with words.

We are being cautiously optimistic about our future this summer.  As most of you know we’ve hired a Myanmar national to take over Thirst-Aid Myanmar (now known as TAM) and we’re hoping once again to spend a whole summer in the US building up program support, seeing our families and just soaking up some more of that 24 hour electric, laughter, and mini-skirt stuff (did I just make a joke? – wow, Burma Head must really be wearing off!).  We’ve both got a bit more to do in Myanmar but Cathy will be back in the states in late May and I’ll be back in early July.  Keep your fingers crossed and make a plea to your favorite deity that there are no more natural disasters in Myanmar at least until summer’s over and hopefully we’ll get a chance to see most of you on this email list.

Best regards – No Bad Days

cnc

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